Four Elements of Aiming Your Bow

Aiming the bow is a complex process involving the integration of many body systems. You must experiment and practice to determine which methods work best for you. Once you've established your system, you must be consistent for the best results.

ONE EYE OR TWO?
Should you shoot with the non-dominant eye open, closed or squinted? Aiming your bow with both eyes open produces the greatest possible field of view, which is an advantage while hunting. But unless your aiming eye is clearly dominant, this may produce visual conflict. It is very common for the non-aiming eye to try to seize control of the sight picture, especially when low-light conditions make it difficult to see through the peep clearly. If your non-dominant eye takes over the aiming process, you’ll miss by a mile.

I prefer to keep one eye closed (or blocked, more specifically) while competing. I actually use a small blinder that prevents my non-dominant eye from seeing the target at full draw. However, while hunting, I prefer to shoot with both eyes open. If I feel my non-dominant eye taking over (which, as I’ve said, often happens in low-light conditions), I squint my left eye to allow my right eye to re-establish control. This technique is not ideal, because it can create inconsistencies. However, when hunting, you sometimes have to compromise pinpoint accuracy for practicality.

BREATHING CONTROL
Properly controlling your breathing during the shot is crucial to aiming well. This aspect of aiming your bow is very important!

I prefer to take a very deep breath before I draw the bow, another breath as I pull the string back and then another as I settle in. I then let one quarter to one half of the last breath out. I am trying to fully oxygenate my red blood cells to give me a longer time to shoot the shot before hypoxia sets in. I leave three quarters or so of the breath in for two reasons. First, it keeps the lungs relatively full of air so oxygen exchange can continue as I hold my breath. Second, it splints my ribcage and creates additional core stability. This is important because we want our entire body to be rigid — as long as the rigidity is passive (without muscular involvement).

FLOAT THE PIN
You can shoot very well with your pin moving. Everyone’s pin moves as they aim — no matter what they may tell you. You do not need to become a shooting machine with a rock steady hold in order to shoot well. Many bowhunters never grasp this truth and fight target panic as a result.

You will produce smaller groups if you forget about shot timing and simply focus on your technique. Use proper body positions during the shot (I’ll touch on this in future columns), relax fully and squeeze off a surprise release. Though your pin may be floating around the aiming point, if you learn to stay truly relaxed and centered, the arrow will often hit closer to the center than you were aiming when the shot broke.

Some archers try to scribe a tiny figure-eight pattern with their pin — the center of the eight being the aiming point. Others try to circle the aiming point very slowly with the pin. Still others (myself included) do not use a specific system; they just let the pin float through its own pattern as they fully relax and focus on technique. I believe you should not try to control the specific movement of the pin; just relax and let the pin float as you simply attempt to keep it as close to the aiming point as possible throughout the shot. There is a natural centering tendency that occurs within the shot if you simply let the pin float. I believe this centering tendency allows you to subconsciously move the pin toward the middle as the shot breaks and the tension is released.

One system that will not work well in the long term is the one most archers naturally choose: consciously trying to hold the pin rock steady and pulling the trigger when the pin is on the spot. This method can lead to tension and target panic.

POINT OF FOCUS
I focus primarily on the pin and let the target blur, but I know many great archers and handgun shooters who focus on the target and let the aiming device (pin) blur out. Rather than telling you which method to use, I will only say one method will produce better accuracy for you than the other. Experiment until you determine which point of focus produces the smallest group. Only a couple sessions on the range using this simple test will let you know which technique is best for you.

  • Art Kirwan

    I recently discovered I had my pins set up incorrectly, but now I don't recall the proper way to set them correctly. I have two bows, One has an older Bear four pin system and the other is newer witch has a three pin fiber optics pin system. I just tried both bows and hit tatgets like I never shot a bow before (basically missed every shot @10 yards).

    The newer bow sight was set up by a pro-shop; is there a standard for set up, i.e. is center pin set for 10, 15, 20 yards? I know I am getting old, but how did I forget everything? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Art Kirwan

    • richard greene

      deer 10 yards , i have been shooting slapstring for a little while and it seems to me that you set your pins at 10 yards and shoot your bow first pin at 20 yards and 2nd at thirty 3rd at forty and so on but i shoot single pin.i thought i would give the deer or what ever im hunting a fair chance
      yours truly fair chance

    • john major

      Having had my own archery shop for some 20yrs. most bowhunters use treestands. The most popular setup is to set the 3 pins for these distances. The top pin set for 10yds, middle pin for 20yds,and the third pin for 30yds.A 30yd. shot in the woods is a long shot, and many times you will not have seen a small twig in your line of sight. happy hunting, john major

  • KansasBowHunter

    I am working to become a better archery hunter with a key area of focus being on shooting skill. I am struggling with one issue however and am not sure if it is me, my sight, my bow, etc. My bow is pretty fast – I shoot a Ross Crave with a 30 in. draw, 64-66lbs pull. The bow is new to me this year. My top pin is good out to 25 yrds. My second / bottom pin is good out to 35. I only use those two pins as I am only comfortable shooting out to 35yrds.

    My old bow was a single cam and much slower. With it I used a 20yrd and 30 yard pin.

    My issue is that on my current setup, my top pin (25yrd) and my bottom pin (35yrd) are right on top of each other. So when I am aiming, I am seeing both of them through my peep and they almost blurr into one. I recently mucked a shot on a deer and believe this was the culprit. Between blurring the animal and not being able to separate the pins in the sight, I am really struggling.

    Any ideas on how to remedy this? Try a new sight, go to using just one pin, etc.?

    Thanks

  • SMO

    KBH, I just got a new bow [Bear Archery Encounter] I set it up with a 62 lb. draw weight, 27.5" draw length, Easton Raider Platinmum 55-70 arrows with 100 grain target points and my 15 and 25 yard pins are only separated by approximately 1/8". I'll most likely keep them where they are. If you have less than an 1/8" of an inch gap I would recommend you only use 1 pin for 25 and 35 yards and compensate . e.g. Split the difference of your two pins and put your pin there and whenever you aim aim a little low for 25 yards and a little high for 35 yards. Then you can adjust your 2nd pin at 40 yards. I will set a third pin on my bow for 35 yards because I don't plan on shooting any further than that. That's because most of my deer shots are less than 25 yards. I hope this helps. Good luck.