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Tactics

Tips For Tuning Fixed-Blade Broadheads

by Cabe Johnson   |  October 28th, 2010 0

Here at Spot-Hogg, we really like hitting where we aim…


Here at Spot-Hogg, we really like hitting where we aim. Sometimes it can be quite a challenge to get our equipment set up and shooting well, and we find it even more difficult to get our hunting equipment shooting just the way we like it.

The biggest problem comes when we screw broadheads onto our arrows and shoot them; our arrows will not group as well as with field points. Sometimes, depending on the type of broadhead we use, the group size will increase considerably. To minimize this, we do some extra work on our hunting arrows.

Of course, we use the best arrows we can afford. We use large fletching with big helical twists to maximize stability. We make sure all the fletchings are oriented the same in relation to the nocks. We twist the nock in line with the next fletching to get a bad arrow to group closer to the others. We square up the ends of the arrows so the broadheads will go on as straight as possible. When we are ready to put on broadheads, we try to make sure every arrow has the broadhead blades in the same orientation in relation to the fletching. And we spin the arrows on an arrow spinner to ensure the broadheads are centered on the shaft, because even a slight wobble makes a big difference in accuracy.

A while back, one of us was going to use some new, state-of-the art broadheads and made a disturbing discovery. He screwed on the new broadhead and spun it on the arrow spinner. It had a bad wobble. When he just unscrewed and re-tightened that broadhead, it wobbled a little less. So, he loosened it for a third time and pushed the broadhead to one side as he tightened it. The broadhead wobbled horribly.

This, we have found, is fairly common when putting broadheads on arrows. But with these broadheads, the wobble was particularly bad. The worst part was that to replace the blades on these heads, they had to be loosened and then retightened. This meant that after you finally got the broadhead aligned and the arrow was shooting well in practice, you had to loosen the broadhead, destroying the alignment and erasing any confidence in that arrow. Experience has shown us it is wishful thinking to believe you can simply screw the head back on and align it exactly the same.

We have not found any screw-in broadhead/arrow insert combinations that do not have alignment problems, though some align better than others. To avoid realignment problems, we do one of two things.

Some of us use broadheads that allow you to unscrew the tip and replace blades without unscrewing the ferrule from the arrow, which doesn’t affect alignment. Others just re-sharpen the blades while they are on the arrow. Again, this doesn’t affect the alignment. Doing either of these two things ensures your arrows will be just like they were in practice.

If we decide to use a broadhead that needs to be taken off the arrow to replace blades, we do our best to align the broadhead with minimal wobble. Then we shoot them once into foam to check accuracy and touch up the blade edge with a sharpener if needed. If you can’t check an arrow’s accuracy after realigning the broadhead, we recommend not shooting much past 20 yards. Even a slight change in the alignment of the broadhead can drastically affect the accuracy of the arrow.

Related posts:

  1. Tru-Fire’s T1 Fixed Blade Broadhead
  2. Five Time-Tested Tuning Tips
  3. 2015 Broadhead Test: Fixed-Blade vs. Field Stone
  4. 2015 Broadhead Test: Fixed-Blade vs. Hemorrhage Bags
  5. 2015 Broadhead Test: Fixed-Blade vs. Sheet Metal
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Related posts:

  1. Tru-Fire’s T1 Fixed Blade Broadhead
  2. Five Time-Tested Tuning Tips
  3. 2015 Broadhead Test: Fixed-Blade vs. Field Stone
  4. 2015 Broadhead Test: Fixed-Blade vs. Hemorrhage Bags
  5. 2015 Broadhead Test: Fixed-Blade vs. Sheet Metal
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